Tom Greenbaum:

Please make suggestions for a small, inexpensive collimated spotlight for lighting my “City Daze” dichroic artwork. It needs to be a continuous light source staying on for several hours.

Gemini:

Spotlight Suggestions for Dichroic Art

Lighting dichroic art is all about creating a tight, precise beam to maximize the colorful light separation and reflection. For your “City Daze” piece, you need a small, inexpensive, continuous, and collimated (parallel light rays) spotlight.

The best solution often balances cost with performance, focusing on LED technology for continuous, low-heat operation.

Recommended Approaches

Option	Pros	Cons
Small LED Fixtures with Beam Shapers	Highly precise control; often high CRI (Color Rendering Index)	Higher initial cost; potentially larger than a simple spotlight
High-Quality LED Flashlight/Pistol Grip	Very inexpensive; excellent collimation (narrow beam) due to deep reflectors/lenses; small size	Heat management must be confirmed for continuous use; may require an external power supply modification
DIY Collimated LED	Highly customizable beam spread; lowest cost for components	Requires technical skill (optics and electronics); may look less professional

Detailed Suggestions

Small Form-Factor LED Projectors/Spotlights

Look for compact, plug-in LED spotlights designed for art or retail display. These fixtures are generally designed for continuous use and have the necessary cooling.

Key Features to Look For

• Continuous Power: Must be plug-in (AC or USB-powered) for continuous hours. Battery-powered lights often have poor battery life or dim output.
• High CRI: Aim for a CRI of 90 or higher to ensure the colors in your dichroic glass are rendered accurately and vibrantly.
• Narrow Beam Angle: Search for beam angles between 5° and 15°. The narrower the beam, the more collimated the light will appear.
• Heat Dissipation: LED sources are ideal because they generate far less heat than halogen lights, which is safer for continuous operation near artwork.

High-Collimation Flashlights (Budget-Friendly)

In the very inexpensive category, some video/photography spotlights or high-quality LED flashlights offer excellent collimation. These are often designed with deep reflectors or TIR (Total Internal Reflection) optics to create a very narrow, concentrated beam.

• Continuous Use Consideration: If choosing a flashlight, you must ensure it can run for hours without overheating. Look for models with good integrated heat sinking and a stable power source (e.g., a constant-current USB driver) rather than relying on its internal battery. Many high-power flashlights will automatically dim after a few minutes to protect themselves, which is not suitable for your application. Confirm the thermal limits for continuous use.

The Dichroic Effect and Collimation

The dichroic effect relies on the angle of incidence of light. Dichroic glass reflects certain wavelengths while allowing others to pass through, creating spectacular shifts in color.

A collimated beam (one where the light rays are nearly parallel) is critical because it ensures that all the light striking the artwork hits it at the same, uniform angle. This results in a much sharper, more dramatic color split and a stronger “hot spot” of reflected color, which is exactly what you want to emphasize your “City Daze” piece.

To see an example of very focused narrow-beam LED lights that could be adapted for continuous display, you can check out this video: Small spotlights for video photography focused narrow beam light EPIC video. This video discusses affordable spotlights commonly used in video and photography, which demonstrates the type of focused beam that works well for dichroic art.

Tom Greenbaum:

Would a bulb such as the following be a good lighting choice, or is the beam not narrow enough? What does PAR20 mean?

“PAR20 LED Spotlight Bulb, 12W AC85-265V E26 Medium Base PAR20 Narrow Beam Floodlight Beam Angle 24 Degree 100W Halogen Bulb Equivalent”

Gemini:

The PAR20 LED spotlight bulb you described is likely not ideal for maximizing the unique optical effects of your dichroic artwork, though it’s a great start in terms of being inexpensive and continuous.

Here is a breakdown of why, and an explanation of what “PAR20” means:

Beam Angle: 24 Degrees is Too Wide

For the most dramatic effect on dichroic glass, you need a highly collimated (parallel) beam.

• 24° Beam Angle: This is considered a “Narrow Flood” light. It will illuminate a fairly wide area and produce a bright circle of light on the artwork. However, because the light rays are spreading out significantly, the unique colors and reflections from the dichroic coating will be less distinct and less vibrant.
• The Ideal Beam: For dichroic glass, you generally want a light with a beam angle of 15° or less, with the most effective spotlights having an angle of 5° to 10°. These tighter beams ensure the light hits the glass at a uniform angle, which is what separates the colors most intensely.

What Does PAR20 Mean?

PAR is a standard sizing term that stands for Parabolic Aluminized Reflector.

• PAR: Indicates a type of reflector lamp commonly used in track lighting and recessed fixtures that provides a highly directional, controlled beam of light.
• 20: This number refers to the bulb’s diameter, measured in eighths of an inch.
  • 20 / 8 = 2.5 inches.
  • Therefore, a PAR20 bulb is 2.5 inches in diameter.

In summary: The PAR20 casing is small, which meets your size requirement, and the LED and E26 base meet your continuous and inexpensive requirements. However, the 24-degree beam angle is the primary drawback for your specific goal of lighting dichroic art.

Better Alternatives to Look For

To achieve better collimation while keeping the cost low, you should search for these terms:

• “Collimated Spot” or “Pinspot”: Look for lights explicitly labeled with beam angles of 5° to 10°.
• “MR16” Fixtures with Low Beam Angle: Small, inexpensive track or ceiling mountable fixtures that accept an MR16 bulb can often take bulbs with a much tighter beam angle (e.g., 8° or 10°).
• “Focusable LED Spot”: Small gobo projectors or specialized art picture lights sometimes have a focusing lens that allows you to adjust the beam to be extremely tight.

Tom Greenbaum:

I found the following MR16 bulb, now I need a fixture for a single bulb. I assume the fixture needs to include a transformer:

“SORAA Brilliant MR16 12V 7.5W Dimmable 3000K 10 Degree Narrow Spot Light Bulb”

Gemini:

That is an excellent choice of bulb for showcasing dichroic art. The SORAA Brilliant line has exceptional color rendering (high CRI) and the 10-degree narrow spot is perfect for creating defined, separated beams of color.

You are correct that since the bulb is a 12V low-voltage MR16, you will need a fixture that includes an AC-to-12V transformer/power supply, or you’ll need to purchase the fixture and power supply separately.

The simplest, smallest, and most inexpensive solution for a single, adjustable, plug-in fixture is usually a two-component setup or a dedicated mini-spotlight kit.

Here are two options to consider, with the components you will need:

Option 1: Separate Fixture Head and Plug-In Power Supply (Most Flexible/Smallest)

This approach is highly recommended for a desk, shelf, or tabletop setup, as it keeps the transformer out of the fixture head itself, resulting in a smaller spotlight.

Component	Specification for your 12V, 7.5W Bulb	Notes
1. Fixture Head	12V MR16 GU5.3 Fixture/Housing	Look for a small, adjustable, surface-mount spotlight. Many inexpensive landscape light heads are perfect for this (as long as you discard the mounting spike). They are small, durable, and already designed for a 12V MR16 bulb.
2. Power Supply	12V AC or DC Plug-in Adapter (Min 10W)	You need a wall-plug adapter that converts 120V household power to 12V. Since your bulb is 7.5W, look for a power supply rated at least 10W (or 1A).
3. Dimming	Dimmable 12V Power Supply	If you intend to use the dimming feature of your SORAA bulb, you must use a compatible Magnetic Low Voltage (MLV) or Electronic Low Voltage (ELV) dimmable transformer (usually sold separately from the plug-in adapters). A standard “power brick” AC/DC adapter is not dimmable.

Option 2: Single Low-Voltage Track Head Kit (Minimal Installation)

This option gives you a complete, ready-to-mount unit that often has the transformer built right into the base.

• Search Term: Look for a “Single Low Voltage Track Lighting Kit,” “Mini-Canopy Kit,” or “Monopoint MR16 Spotlight.”
• These kits usually include a small base (canopy) that mounts to the wall/ceiling and houses the transformer, a small adjustable stem, and the MR16 socket.
• Key Feature to Check: Ensure the product description explicitly states it is a low-voltage (12V) fixture and includes a transformer or “runs off 120V line voltage” (meaning the transformer is built-in).

Important Note on Dimming:

If you are using the dimmable SORAA bulb and plan to dim it, be cautious. LED bulbs like yours work best with LED-compatible low-voltage transformers. If you choose a track head (Option 2) or a dimmable power supply (Option 1), verify that the transformer is rated for LED low-voltage loads to avoid flickering or buzzing.

Tom Greenbaum:

I have found many choices for mr16 sockets at good prices. However typically they don’t come with a retaining clip for the bulb. Is a clip recommended? The clip may be necessary given that the intent is to orbit the lamp around the art piece. Can the retaining clips be purchased separately?

Gemini:

That is a great observation and a very practical question! Since you intend to move the lamp around the artwork, the retaining clip is absolutely recommended.

Here is a breakdown of why it’s necessary and how to find them:

Is a Retaining Clip Recommended? Yes, Strongly.

The MR16 bulb is held in its socket (GU5.3 base) only by the two small pins.¹ While friction is often enough to hold the bulb in a fixed, upright position, it is not reliable for an adjustable spotlight, especially one that will be rotated, tilted, or “orbited” around the art piece.

• Vulnerability: Without a clip, the bulb is highly susceptible to falling out when the fixture is angled sharply, shaken, or moved.
• Risk: Given the expense and quality of your SORAA bulb, you do not want it dropping onto the floor or your artwork.
• Fixture Requirement: The clip is essential for any fixture that allows for aiming or rotation (like track heads, desktop spots, or landscape fixtures).

Can Retaining Clips Be Purchased Separately? Yes!

You have several ways to source the clips:

Method	Description	Search Terms
Buy Clips Separately	Clips are widely sold online as replacement parts for recessed and track lighting. They are inexpensive and usually made of manganese steel. They often come in multi-packs.	MR16 retaining spring clip or MR16 bulb holder clip
Buy Socket With Clip	Many suppliers sell the ceramic socket pre-riveted with the clip attached, often called an MR16 socket with clip and wire leads or “Hickey.” Since you are building your own fixture with a power supply, this may be the cleanest solution.	MR16 socket with clip or Porcelain MR16 socket with retaining clip
Check Fixture Parts	If you purchase a small spotlight housing (like a low-voltage landscape fixture), it may include the spring clip, even if the inexpensive socket you bought did not.	(Check product photos and descriptions)

Tip: Search results confirm that single clips or packs of clips are readily available from major online retailers and specialized lighting parts sites. They are typically universal for the standard MR16 bulb size.

To get the most secure and clean setup, I would suggest looking for the MR16 socket that comes pre-assembled with the retaining clip (the second search term above). This ensures the clip is mounted correctly for the socket and simplifies your wiring into the small fixture head.

SORAA

10 Deg. Narrow Spot LED Bulbs

• See MR16 LED Flood Light Bulbs | LightBulbs.com
• See 1000LightBulbs.com – SORAA MR16 Bulb – GU5.3 Base

Soraa 00923 Natural Light – 410 Lumens – 8 Watt – 3000 Kelvin – LED MR16 Lamp – 50 Watt Equal – Snap System Compatible – 10 Deg. Narrow Spot – Halogen – 95 CRI – 12 Volt.

• Works with trailing and leading-edge phase-cut dimmers
• High 90+ CRI
• Saves 85% more energy than halogen lamps
• Exceptional beam quality with crisp shadows
• Snap System Compatible
• Narrow spot beam angle
• GU5.3 base

Soraa 00925 Natural Light – 430 Lumens – 8 Watt – 4000 Kelvin – LED MR16 Lamp – 50 Watt Equal – Snap System Compatible – 10 Deg. Narrow Spot – Cool White – 95 CRI – 12 Volt.

• Works with trailing and leading-edge phase-cut dimmers
• Saves 85% more energy than halogen lamps
• Exceptional beam quality with crisp shadows
• High 90+ CRI
• Snap System Compatible
• Narrow spot beam angle
• GU5.3 base

Soraa 00919 Natural Light – 390 Lumens – 8 Watt – 2700 Kelvin – LED MR16 Lamp – 50 Watt Equal – Snap System Compatible – 10 Deg. Narrow Spot – Warm White – 95 CRI – 12 Volt.

• Works with trailing and leading-edge phase-cut dimmers
• High 90+ CRI
• Saves 85% more energy than halogen lamps
• Exceptional beam quality with crisp shadows
• Snap System Compatible
• Narrow spot beam angle
• GU5.3 base